VIA DINARICA (short traveling report, English version)

Sarajevo – Montenegro – Herzegovina – Dalmatia – Velebit – Veliki Kapela – Gorski kotar – Slovenic Karst – Montefalcone

36 journey days + ½ arrival day (34 cycling days, 2 resting days)
ca. 2200 photos (total), presented in the report: ca. 1170 photos
3035 km | 44755 Hm | ca. 60 passes (without arrival day)
Averages (only cycling days): 89 km/d | 1316 Hm/d | 7:05 h/d | 12,8 km/h



Please notice, that this report is just a very short abstract of my original report in German. I can’t work out a complete English version, because time is limited. The main focus of this report are some English spoken friends, mainly outside of the cycling forum. If you are able to read German, please look in [url=]Via Dinarica (German version)[/url]. There you’ll find al lot of informations in detail about the routes to each stage, but even general informations about food, accomodations, literature, maps, cycling conditions & roads, culture, music, historical & political background, geological information about the Karst phenomenon in carbonate stones. Also I quoted some original literature and I used to create some different literary styles myself beside general documentary style – some of them hidden in the text at several places. So maybe the German text is not easy to read for foreigners – even sometimes Germans get some problems. :grins:

You should know, that there are some more pictures in the German version, as to say in the introduction (which be used for explaining some text information). The galleries for each chapter are the same in both versions. You can follow the journey through the pictures because I use to make a good documentary density of foto streams. You’ll find some general informations about restaurant and accommodation under each stage. This dates are written in German (even abbreviations), I won’t change this. You can find out the prices and the name of the places without understanding the rest, maybe. Every chapter is introduced by a music title. It will support the feeling of the chapter as well it will give an overview of musical variety in the modern Balkan region. More information about this you’ll just find in the German version.

The journey was not my first one to the Balkan as can see in[url=http://radreise-forum.de/topics/482701#Post482701]Alpen-Adria (Ost): Dubrovnik & retour[/url]. For this time the route was much more complex and I visited some additional countries, especially Montenegro. I looked for a lot of routes far from touristical main routes, too. This had been realized by riding through National Parks (Montenegro) and (protected) landscapes behind the coastline (Croatia). Of course I crossed some touristic main regions, too (Montenegro coastline, Makarska Riviera, Isle of Brac). You should know, too, that my voyage followed the mountains of the Dinaric Alps as well the idea of Via Dinarica, which is a wider concept for walking or cycling paths and local roads for exploring the nature of the Dinaric Alps, the regional culture and to promote ecological or regional tourism. More than that it is proposed to reunite the different cultures, religions and ethnic people of former Jugoslavia to a European community (corresponding to European Union as a political process) to achieve a new life in peace and reconciliation.

Another idea, which is my own, was to play a little bit with the words “Karsting” and “Casting” – as well to make a real Karsting-Show to present the beauties fo the different landscapes and special places of carbonate sculpturing like waterfalls, canyons, karst springs and lakes, stone fields, dolinas, caves or poljes. For getting an idea of the Dinaric Alps you can take a short look on the mountain map, which covers the Balkan region in the West from the Albanian Alps in the South to the Slovenic Karst in the North, finally falling down to the Adriatic Sea in Italy at Trieste, with its nice white stones which inspired many writers to poetry and thoughts.



[farbe:#006600]!!! Technical Remark: If you want to look at the photo galleries, you should do this in the following recommended way: Please click at the picture of each chapter (which is not the first but an inviting picture). The first picture of the gallery will open. For full monitoring you should push key F11 (for canceling push F11 again). Use the right arrow for going forward, the left for going backward. Please don’t click in the middle of the picture, because flickr is not perfect and will start an endless slope not able to load the photo (this is actual standard but could change in future). If you move the mouse a little bit, you’ll see the file name. Some of them include the name of the places, so you can follow the route.[/farbe]


CHAPTER I: Bosnia

Music: Goran Bregovic „Ederlezi“ (4:01 min. – additional ad-trailer!)

In contrast to party life in Ilidza there is a remote place of tranquillity close to Sarajevo town with the Bosna springs. There facilities to relax in a big park area with refreshing water gardens. The Rogoj pass turned out a nice road with little canyons, rivers, flowers and snow panorama to Bjelasnica mountain. A macadam road later shows earth pyramids. Because of camera problems I didn’t visit the old town of Foca – maybe one should do that.

Sat 15.6. Stuttgart – Flughafen LE 17:50 || 19:20 h (ca. 21 h, 1-2 h late) Flughafen Sarajevo – Ilidza
32 km | 14,3 km/h | 2:16 h | 250 Hm
E (Ilidza-Zentrum): Pizza, Bier ~7 €
Ü: C Oaza Ilidza 10 €

Sun 16.6. Ilidza – Bosna-Quellen – Hrasnica – Krupac – Trnovo – Rogoj (1163 m) – Dobre Polje – Ockkvalje – Donji Budanj – Skravnik (835 m) – Susjesno – Foca – Brod – Prhalj
115 km | 14,1 km/h | 8:02 h | 1370 Hm
E (Camp/SV): Brot, Käse, Bier 1-2 KM, eingeladen, Slibowitz
Ü: C Tara-Rafting-Camp No. ?, Hütte 0 KM, eingeladen

Photo gallery CHAPTER I (50 Photos):




CHAPTER II: Crna Gora alpina 1

Music: Andrea Hermenau Quartet „Te desha me hakitate“ (alban. Trad. 10:39 min.).

The first part of alpine Montenegro covers the three main canyons of the country – Piva, Tara and Moraca. Most exciting are the tunnels of the Piva canyon. The most impressing parts of the Tara you should visit by rafting north of Durdevica bridge. Between the canyons I visited the mountain areas of Durmitor and Biogradska Gora National Park with some wonderful lakes. On the high polje of Zabljak you find a the nice pass Bare worth to ride. Best for going around in the mountains of Durmitor is to walk, but you can find alternative routes for cycling. Be careful of the mosquitos. In the Biogradska Gora National Park you can follow a heavy macadam route, which is part of top biking trail 3, a promoted MTB-route in the Northeast of Montenegro. You should not go all parts of this route with a cycling bike, because it is to difficult.

Worth to mention is Miso’s Camp in Razvrsje because of its hospitality and quality. Best restaurant in this chapter was this one in the Biogradska Gora NP. Kolasin, which I visited twice, looks like a very good and small mountain town, with good facilities for staying there. I can recommend the private accommodation of Lidija & Ljubisa Rakocevic. Podgorica is a modern, lively town, not real important to mention the architecture but the appealing flair. Please ride the Moraca canyon from Crkvine downward because of heavy traffic.

Mon 17.6. Prhalj – BiH/MNE – Staumauer Pivsko jezero – Pluzine-Brücke – Trsa – Prijespa (1884 m) – Durmitor Sedlo (1908 m) – Razvrsje (Zabljak)
81 km | 9,9 km/h | 8:08 h | 2080 Hm
E (Camp): gebr. Forelle m. Beilagen, Eis, Rw, 2 Bier 12 €
Ü: C Razvrsje 2,50 €

Tue 18.6. Razvrsje – Zabljak – Crno jezero – Ivan Do – Zabljak – Pitomine – Zminje jezero (1534 m) – Uskoci – Govedo jezero – Curevac (1626 m) – Uskoci – Zabljak – Vrela – Njegovuda – Bare (1425 m) – Riblje jezero – Vrazje jezero – Javorje – Virak – Razvrsje – Zabljak – Razvrsje
78 km | 12,0 km/h | 6:18 h | 1145 Hm
E (R Javivovaca): gek. Lamm in Milch, PF, Rw, 11,30 €
Ü: C Razvrsje 2,50 €
B: NP Durmitor 3 €

Wed 19.6. Razvrsje – Zabljak – Vrela – Most na Durdevica Tari – Gornja Dobrilovina – Bistrica – Donja Polja – Mojkovac – Biogradsko jezero
89 km | 15,2 km/h | 5:50 h | 955 Hm
E: Vorspeise „Kolasin“ (Käse, Schinken, Rauchfl.), gegr. Gem., Fleischtopf, Kart., Crêpes Choco, Rw 29 €
Ü: C Biogradsko jezero 4,50 €
B: NP Biogradska Gora 3 €

Thu 20.6. Biogradsko jezero (1110 m) – Dolovi/Quelle – Svatovsko groblje – Hochpunkt (1930 m) – Jusin brijeg (1900 m) – Velika chala (1940 m) – Bjelasica-Hütte – Vranjak/Raskrsnica (1725 m) – Jezerine – Kolasin
43 km | 7,3 km/h | 5:54 h | 1055 Hm
E (R histor. Konoba/Zentrum): gebrat. Lamm, Kart., Salat, Rw 13,30 €
Ü: PZ Rakocevic 20 € m. Fr.

Fri 21.6. Kolasin – Crkvine (1045 m) – Manastir Moraca – Bioce – Podgorica – Bioce
98 km | 18,3 km/h | 5:20 h | 400 Hm
E (R Mijovic): Serb. Salat, Pocelli (Rouladen m. Käse/Milch), PF, Gem., Rw, Crêpes, Cafe 21,10 €
Ü: C wild 0 €

Photo gallery CHAPTER II (100 photos):




CHAPTER III: Crna Gora alpina 2

Music: Bozidar Djukic „Tragicna pogibija Branke Djukic” (10:01 min.)

There is a wonderful alternative to Moraca route, but more difficult, because you cross between Bioce and Verusa two passes higher than Crkvine. You will see the mountains of Komovi, even later on the way to Andriijevica. Another impressing mountain area with Prokletije (which is crossbordering to Albania) you’ll find close to the Plavsko lake. Feel free to stay more time for example in valley of Grbaja with great mountain scenery and walking possibilities. Not really less fascinating is the route about Semoli pass from Kolasin to Tusina, which you can use to reach Zabljak from Kolasin, too. The Nevideo/Komarnica canyon you can follow over the canyon, but not inside (rafting). If you want to ride like me to Izlazak camp and Piva lake, you have to cross a heavy macadam road.

There different landscapes around Rastovac and Niksic. In Niksic there are two great artificial lakes, which cause a moisty plane. The mountain road to the monasteries of Ostrog will climb up to 900 m, but you will rewarded with sensational buildings at or inside the stone, looking far over the valley. In the Podgorica region there are some places worth to visit, mainly the Niagara falls of the Cijevna, even with some good bathing places and far more the Cijevna canyon, which I explored just a little bit. For food and drink I can recommend two places – in Kolasin you get best traditional cuisine in the old watermill Vodenica, and at lake Skadar you should prefer in Virpazar the restaurant Crmnica.

Sat 22.6. Bioce – Klopot – Vjeternik (1072 m?/1260 m?) – Jablan – Lopate? (? m) – Verusa – Matesevo – Tresnjevik (1598 m) – Andrijevica – Murino – Plav
110 km | 12,9 km/h | 8:33 h | 2080 Hm
E (R Camp): Käsebuchteln, Suppe, Krautwickel m. Hackfleisch, Kuchen, Rw, Cafe
Ü: C Lake Views ca. 15 € inkl. Essen

Sun 23.6. Plav – Krusevo – Ali Pasini Izvori – Gusinje – Grbaja – Gusinje – Murino – Andrijevica – Tresnjevik (1598 m) – Matesevo – Kolasin
114 km | 14,9 km/h | 7:41 h | 1410 Hm
E (R Vodenica): Salat, gem. Grillfleisch, Bratkart., Rw, Cafe, 13,40 €
Ü: PZ Rakocevic 20 € m. Fr.

Mon 24.6. Kolasin – Crkvine (1045 m) – Mijoska – Dragovica Polje – Semoli (1300 m) – Tusina – Previs – Poscenje
76 km | 11,3 km/h | 6:46 h | 1750 Hm
E (R Camp): Tomatensalat, gegr. Hammelfleisch, PF, Rw 14 €
Ü: C Katun Jatak 10 €

Tue 25.6. Poscenje – (Kanjon Nevidio/Komarnica) – Duzi – Dubrovsko – Bezuje – Etno selo Izlazak – Mijkovac – (Bukovac) – Bajovo Polje – Javorak (1235 m) – Rastovac
76 km | 14,3 km/h | 8:19 h | 1350 Hm
E (R Camp): Hähnchen, PF, Salat, Rw, Cafe ca. 5 €
Ü: C Kvisko 5 €

Wed 26.6. Rastovac – Lukovo – Niksic – Ridani – Slansko jezero – Orlina – 11 – Stubica (531 m) – Manastir Ostrog (900 m) – Sekulici (Danilovgrad) – Spuz – Podgorica
112 km | 14,3 km/h | 7:49 h | 1075 Hm
E (R Italiano D.O.C.): Tagliatelle Kirschtomate/Shrimps, Rw, Torte, Cafe 19,50 €
Ü: PZ Villa Patria 18 € o. Fr.

Thu 27.6. Podgorica – Medun – Ubli – Koci – Ducici – Medun – Podgorica – Niagara Falls – Kanjon Cijevna (Anfang) – Tuzi – Bjelo Polje – Virpazar
100 km | 13,9 km/h | 7:20 h | 915 Hm
E (R Crmnica): gegr. Paprika, frit. Fisch, Kart., Rw, Crêpes Marmelade 20,90 €
Ü: C wild 0 €

Photo gallery CHAPTER III (124 photos – photo stream is ending in Tuzi, rest of the day you’ll find in the next chapter):




CHAPTER IV: Crna Gora between Skadar lake & Southcoast

Music: Fjoralba Turku „Indian Summer“ (5:20 min.)

The Skadar lake is partially a huge green carpet of waterlilies. A lot of the mountains are sugar hills, creating an exotic scenery maybe known form Southeast Asia. The lake route southeast is a panoramic road, with less lake scenery, but later with similar river scenery the same to northwest to Rijeka Crnojevica. From Rijeka Crnojevica to Cetinje there is an old steep road, which fall into disrepair, but is partially without any traffic. A similar old road you find via Sutorman, which is worth to ride, too. Virpazar and Rijeka Crnojevica are idyllic places, whre you find accomodation as well as restaurants. Mabye you want stay with a lake beach, you should go to Murici.

At the southcoast you’ll find different places. Between Ulcinj and Ada Boiana there are sandy beaches – the only big beaches of Montenegro. The river delta at Ada Boiana ist totally flat and there is an old naturist resort, where you can take a long walk naked at the beach. You can eat in the camp, but for better seafood restaurant you’ll find many around there at the river. Both seafood restaurants have given me a delicious diner. It is worth to visit old Ulcinj, the beach of the town is very busied, but there are smaller stone beaches close to the town. In Bar you should go for Maslina stara with its more than 2000 years old olive tree. Stari Bar, an old town with different architectural styles has been destroyed by earthquick and you just can take a walk through the ruins. At Petrovac area there are some remote beaches, as to say south of Petrovac. Even you can ride from Petrovac to Cetinje or Virpazar, too. For that you should take the small roads via Utrg, i.e. use the honey route to Rijeka C.

If you go to Budva, you should know that there is a new town and an old town on a half island. You can visit the citadel with a library and miniature ships. Budva is a real jetset town, especially a lot of rich Russians staying there. If you are not interested in night life, look for places in Jaz or Milocer at Sveti Stefan island, for staying quiet nights. Sveti Stefan, of course, is luxury purely, but the camping in front of it is the opposite of that.

Fri 28.6. Virpazar – Gornje Seocca – (Donji Murici) – Ostros – Stegvas (916m?/~500m?) – Vladimir – (Ulcinj) – Ada Bojana
87 km | 13,2 km/h | 6:34 h | 1350 Hm
E (R Konoba Kod Ranka): Käse, Dorade, Kart., Spinat, Karamelltorte, Rw, Cafe 26 €
Ü: C Ada 8,40 €

Sat 29.6. Ada Bojana
0 km | 0,0 km/h | 0:00 h | 0 Hm
E (R Misko): Fischsuppe, Vorspeisenplatte m. Gambas, Tintenfischrisotto, Käse, Ww, Melone, Cafe 22,30 €
Ü: C Ada 8,40 €

Sun 30.6. Ada Bojana – Ulcinj – Busat – Stari Bar – Zupci – Sutorman vrata (805 m) – Virpazar
91 km | 12,4 km/h | 7:18 h | 1405 Hm
E (H): Fischsuppe, Salat, geb. Forelle, Kuchen, Rw
Ü: H Pelikan 43,50 € inkl. Essen/o. Fr.
B: Stara Maslina 1 €


Mon 1.7. Virpazar – Rijeka Crnojevica – ? (? m) – Cetinje – Seostik (876 m) – Kosmac – Budva – Sveti Stefan/Praskvica
94 km | 12,5 km/h | 7:24 h | 1565 Hm
E (H/R Adrevic): Griech. Salat, gebrat. Fleisch, Reis, Gem. in Sahnesauce, Rw 26 €
Ü: C Crvena Glavica 6,50 € (kalte Du.)

Tue 2.7. Sveti Stefan/Milocer
0 km | 0,0 km/h | 0:00 h | 0 Hm
E (R ?): Rw, Salat, gegr. Tintenfisch, Früchte-Eisbecher 28 €
Ü: C Crvena Glavica 6,50 € (kalte Du.)

Wed 3.7. Sveti Stefan/Milocer – Petrovac – Poljice (665 m) – Gornji Brceli – Utrg – Seostik (876 m) – Kosmac – Budva – Budva-Jaz
75 km | 11,6 km/h | 6:28 h | 1535 Hm
E (R Kiki): Tintenfischrisotto, Njesgu-Steak, Bier 23,30 €
Ü: C Jaz 6,80 €
B: Citadelle Budva 2 €

Photo gallery CHAPTER IV (139 photos):




CHAPTER V: Boka Kotarska & Lovcen mountains

Music: Renaud Garcia-Fons „Oriental bass“ (6:39 min.)

I should notice that every camping at the coast of Montenegro was on a very low level, maybe best Ada Boiana. Inside the country some are better, especially those, who look for rafting tourism. Maybe there are some better small garden campings in the bay of Kotor, especially between Tivat and Kotor or at Donji Morini. It is worth to ride the whole Kotor bay instead you can shorten with a ferry at Lepetani. A lot of the villages look very nice and there are always small beaches in the villages or between. Even there you find rental bikes (Tivat, Perast). Of course, the scenery of Kotor bay is great and you should take some time for that. Kotor itself is an old town with different periods of architecture – even Romans were not the first one staying there. The Lovcen mountains are typical surface karst and you are riding through stone fields. The national park route ist southward and you can make it more sportive, if you climb to the Njegosev mausoleum.

Thu 4.7. Budva-Jaz – Tivat – Lepetani – Kotor – Krstac (945 m) – Njegusi – Cekanje (1248 m) – Cetinje
87 km | 11,9 km/h | 7:18 h | 1335 Hm
E (R im Zentrum): Grillteller, PF, Gem., Rw, Eis, Cafe 17,30 €
Ü: PZ 20 € o. Fr.

Fri 5.7. Cetinje – Ivanova Korita – Jezerski Vrh (1565 m) – Krstac (945 m) – Kotor – Perast – Risan – Donji Morini – Bijela – Zelenika
100 km | 14,1 km/h | 7:03 h | 1165 Hm
E (R Moretto): Kalbsmedaillons, Reis, PF, Salat, Bier, Cafe 14 €
Ü: C Zelenika 7 € (kalte Du.)
B: Mausoleum Njegosev 3 €

Photo gallery CHAPTER V (132 photos):




CHAPTER VI: Herzegowina

Music: Mostar Sevdah Reunion „Cudna jada od Mostara grada“ (8:23 min.)

First you have to climb and pass the Orjen mountains. Maybe there are some other possibilities to visit this mountain area, but maybe you need better a mountain bike. In Herzegovina you first pass parts of the Republica Srpska (Serbian people). Trebinje looks nice at the river with trees and an old bridge, some vineyards are usual there. Bileca is less touristic, but the lake makes the region to a lovely place, too. The route to Stolac follows some poljes of its own character with gras fields and a fruitful plane. Stolac is a historical town with a lot of bridge houses – some little Venice, but there are still many war sores to see.

Not far from Mostar, Pocitelj is a wonderful old town, representing the oriental influence in Herzegovina. You should visit the the town in early mornig are in the evening, but of course there are less people than in Mostar. From old town to water I found the falls of Kravica, very impressing and similar to Krka falls in Croatia, but higher. You should know, that there is no real bridge over the river. If want be sure, you should ride the road from northside. Like me, you have to cross a small improvised bridge with two boards, what is a little bit delicate.

There are some other places to explore like the karst spring of Vitina as well as the waterfall Kocusa, which is reachable via a cycling route. Going closer to the borderline, you find a lot of Croatian symbols, because most people Croatian and would like to go together with Croatia. But maybe European Union will overcome to all former Jugoslavian countries, Croatia now part of it, BiH will follow in a few years, I’m sure. The motel “Kiwi” was a good choice, the chief is a wife from Dortmund.

Sat 6.7. Zelenika – Herceg Novi – Kameno – Javor (839 m) – Trebinje – ? (605 m) – Mosko (Motel) – Bileca
80 km | 11,4 km/h | 6:58 h | 1465 Hm
E (R Jezero): Steak m. Käse/Champ., PF, Gem., Ww, Eis Bananasplit, Cafe 32,50 KM
Ü: C wild 0 €

Sun 7.7. Bileca – Plana – Divin (648 m) – Berkovici – Prevorac (542 m) – Vrelo Bregave – Stolac – Stolovi (424 m) – Dracevo – Capljina
115 km | 14,0 km/h | 8:10 h | 1200 Hm
E (R Pizzeria): überback. Käse/Preiselbeeren/Ananas, Kalb/Huhn/Gem., Bier 24 €
Ü: C wild 0 €

Mon 8.7. Capljina – Tasovici – Pocitelj – Capljina – Studenci – Stubica – Vodopad Kravica – Ljubuski – Vitina – Slap Kocusa – Klobuk – Grude
63 km | 12,3 km/h | 5:04 h | 815 Hm
E (H): Pfannengeschnetzeltes, Beilagen, RW 10 €
Ü: H (Motel) Kiwi 25 €

Photo gallery CHAPTER VI (115 photos – photo stream is running up to the Crotian borderline, which is part of the morning of the next chapter):




CHAPTER VII: Dalmatia

Music: ZZ Quartet „Twilight time again“ (6:43 min.).

Imotski is famous for the Blue and Red lake, which are very deep karst lakes and founded some mystical narrations. At Zagvozd a had a two hour talk to a Croatian church man, who worked for several times in Stuttgart-Zuffenhausen. We had some discussion about war and peace and the future of Croatia as well as about why not believing in God. Sveti Jure is the top of Biokovo and you just can climb and return. There is a good agro restaurant “Vrata Biokova” with homemade products – you should not miss, even a great panorama you find there as well on the top of Sveti Jurje.

Instead there is a lot of tourism, the Makarska Riviera looks always pretty nice. In Brac I first wanted to visit the famous beach of the Golden Horn, but it failed the right time to get it. There are far more nice places on the island. Wonderful handiwork with the special white carbonate stone of Brac is possible to get in Pucisca. Both ferries will drive several times a day, from Split to Supetar there is a higher frequency than from Makarska to Sumartin.

Behind Split there is region mostly out of touristic area, called Zagora. There are nice poljes, at Otavice there is a big mausoleum of an important architect of Croatia – Ivan Mestrovic. It’s not easy to find accomodations and restaurants, in Vrlika I just get food, but no room, but there some possibilities at the lake or at the road close to Kijevo. I visited the idyllic area of Cetina springs as well as a specific cycling route at the Krcic river for going to Knin. The region Cetina – Knin – Ervenik are still full of war sores, and a lot of people leaved the region, still not willing to come back. So the road via Ervenik ist a long distance still macadam road like ten years before. The Zrmanja river is not able to visit with bike – maybe there is a macadam road at Bilsane, but I couldn’t make experience because too late in the darkness. In Obrovac the only hotel has closed and there is actual no restaurant – so this region is not easy to cross as a tourist.

Tue 9.7. Grude – Imotski – Grubine – Mikote (636 m) – Zagvozd – Turija (715 m) – Kosica – Dragljane
73 km | 13,2 km/h | 5:29 h | 1015 Hm
E: SV
Ü: C wild 0 €

Wed 10.7. Dragljane – Vlaka – Dragljane – Ravca – Brikva – Hrastovac/Vrata Kapela (601 m) – Saranac (730 m) – Vrata Biokova (897 m) – Sveti Jurje (1762 m) – Vrata Biokova – Podgora
87 km | 10,6 km/h | 8:16 h | 1925 Hm
E (Vrata Biokova): Froschschenkel m. Kart., Polenta, Wurst, Schinken, 2 x Salbeisaft 23,30 € (+ Kräuterschnaps gratis)
E (Taverna Berak): Rumpsteak m. Trüffeln/Olivensauce, Bratkart., Bier, Eis Bananasplit 23,50 €
Ü: C Sutikla 13,10 €

Thu 11.7. Podgora – Makarska 11:00 || Fähre 9,25 € || 12:00 Sumartin – Gornji Humac – Praznica – Pucisca – Postira – Supetar
79 km | 12,3 km/h | 6:24 h | 1250 Hm
E (Konaba Lukin): Tintenfischrisotto, Miesmuscheln im Sud, Rw, Wasser, Cafe 26 €
Ü: C Supetar 7,30 €

Fri 12.7. Supetar 6:30 || Fähre 9,25 € || 7:45 Split – (Klis) – Prugovo – ? (618 m) – Gornji Muc – Gornje Postinje – Gradac – Otavice – Parcic – Lemes (854 m) – Vrlika
94 km | 12,7 km/h | 7:22 h | 1520 Hm
E (Konoba): Haxe, PF, Bier, Desert 11,50 €
Ü: C wild 0 €

Sat 13.7. Vrlika – Vrelo Cetine – Kijevo – Krsko vrelo – Kovacic/Topolski slap – Knin – Raducic – Ervenik – Kastel Zegarski – Bilisane – Obrovac
111 km | 13,8 km/h | 8:04 h | 875 Hm
E: SV
Ü: C wild 0 €

Photo gallery CHAPTER VII (145 photos):




CHAPTER VIII: Velebit

Music: Darko Rundek & Cargo Orkestar „Ista slika“ (4:39 min.)

The Velebit mountains covers two national parks. Paklenica in the south is not possible to cross by cycling, so you ride around on the Mali Alan pass. This macadam road through the stone field is not so difficult, but most impressing and you feel a little bit like in the Dolomites. Also there are some landscapes to explore behind the mountain chain with lakes, moorland and the Lika river. In Gospic, again a town hitted hard by the war, there are some hotels – a little bit expensive. There is to find national park information for the Northern Velebit – if coming the other way, the centre is in Krasno.

It’s possible to take an asphalt road from Gospic via Northern Velebit to Krasno, but the up and down following I wouldn’t miss anyway. It’s a nice pass from Gospic side to Ostarije with flowers and butterflies, but the highlight will be the panoramic view at Ostarijska pass. You see the blue colour of the Adratic sea contrasted by the white carbonate stone of Pag island. Down at the Magistrale, there is just a few tourism and you should be carefully to find a supermarket, because a long time coming nothing. Climbing again to Velebit mountains, you have great panoramic view to Rab island and later reach the Alan hut, where it’s possible to stay for the night as well maybe you get a little soup. The cycling route through Northern Velebit features different impressions, a lot of lowers, butterflies and some wood, too. The Zavizan hut offers bedroom, too, but no meals. For that better go to Krasno. The last part of the chapter follows different landscapes like a mystical wood or a prosperous area close to Ototac. There is again a nontouristic area direction Vrh Kapela.

Sun 14.7. Obrovac – Mali Alan (1044 m) – Sveti Rok – Raduc – Licki Ribnik – Gospic
80 km | 10,7 km/h | 7:29 h | 1235 Hm
E (H): Gnocchi, Kalbsmedaillons, PF, Gem., Rw 20,70 €
Ü: H Ana 30 € (verhandelt, nach Liste 43 €)

Mon 15.7. Gospic – Podostra – Brusane – Baske Ostarije (955m, Pass) – Baske Ostarije (Ort/Hotel/Camp) – Ostarijska vrata (928 m) – Karlobag – Prizna – Donji Bileni – Jablanac-Tankstelle – Planinarska Alan Kuca (1340 m)
87 km | 11,6 km/h | 7:29 h | 1895 Hm
E: Gulaschsuppe, Bier, SV
Ü: Z (Kuca Alan) 22,40 € inkl. Essen
B: NP Nördl. Velebit 3,30 €

Tue 16.7. Planinarska kuca Alan – Veliki Alan (1406 m) – Pl. Kuca Mrkviste – Veliki Koziak/Pl. Kuca Careva (1142 m) – Zavizan (1676 m) – Oltare – Oltare vrata (1108 m) – Krasno – Veliki Devcici? (811 m) – Svica – Kompolje – Rapain Klanac (491 m) – Prokike – Brinje
104 km | 13,2 km/h | 7:46 h | 1400 Hm
E (Pizzeria Victoria): Zagreb-Schnitzel, PF, Gem., Rw, Palatschinken 11,10 €
Ü: C wild 0 €

Photo gallery CHAPTER VIII (105 photos):




CHAPTER IX: Veliki Kapela & Gorski kotar

Music: Tamara Obrovac transhistria ensemble „Kada te nima tu“ (4:58 min.)

There are some nice cycling routes up to Ogulin and as to mention some sightseeings look for the castle in Modruski, the lake Sabljaci with the Klek mountain behind and the bridge in Ostarjie. Ogulin has a nice castle focusing sometimes a fairytale festival. The river Dobra divides the town in two parts. If you go for my route through Veliki Kapela to Fuzine, you should know that there is no restaurant until Ravno not far from Fuzine. There is an olympic village close to Jasenak, but not open in summer. At Bijelsko and Jasenak there are some accomodations to find with idyllic landscape. Especially the Klek is a mountain for climbers or mountain walkers, as well there are far more cycling routes in a remote area.

To Fuzine there is a lot of wooden area, but also some free karst area between. If you have possibility try to stay at “Vagabund” in Ravno inside the wood – a nice place to get good food but also a place to stay overnight. Fuzine is famous for game food, mushroom and fish. Beside the two lakes there is nice cave worth to visit. Far on after coming down from Gornje Jeleni there is a huge monument in Podhum for victims of the fascists. There are some smooth wine gardens, next to cross a pass for reaching the Kvarner bay. I can recommend the restaurant “Ronjgi” in Viskovo for its delicious game food.

Wed 17.7. Brinje – Krizpolje – Jezerane – Vrh Kapela (884 m) – Modrus – Modruski – Josipdol – Ostarije – Ribarici – Jezero Sabljaci – Ogulin – Bijelsko (625 m) – Jasenak (607 m)
78 km | 12,2 km/h | 6:22 h | 1215 Hm
E: SV
Ü: PZ Kuca Tomic 13,10 € o. Fr.

Thu 18.7. Jasenak – Stalak vrata? (1047 m) – Banska vrata (1083 m) – Breze – Ravno – Lic – Fuzine – Gornje Jelenje (881 m) – Drazice – Trnovica – Izvor Rjecine – Trnovica – Sarsoni – Viskovo
110 km | 13,1 km/h | 8:20 h | 1500 Hm
E (Vagabund, Ravno): Grillplatte m. Gem., Reis, Polenta, Brennnesselpuffer, Radler 10,55 €
E (R Ronjgi, Viskovo): Hirschbraten, Preiselbeersauce, Gnocchi, Ww, Cafe 19,50 €
Ü: C wild 0 €
B: Spilja Vrelo (Fuzine) 3,90 €

Photo gallery CHAPTER IX (85 photos):




CHAPTER X: Slovenic Karst

Music: Samo Salamon Strings Quartet „The puffins we never saw” (7:59 min.)

My crossbordering was illegal even in times of European Union of both coutries (Croatia still not member of Schengen countries). So I had some problems with Slovenian police, but still turned out without consequences. So this nice route from Klana via Lisac to Novkracine has to be replaced by the direct road via Rupa, but is with much more traffic. Ilirska Bistrica is not important but with nice atmosphere. The road via Sviscaki, mainly in winter a ski resort, but in summer still well known for walkers, is mostly macadam road and will take some instead not too difficult. My idea was to stay at Masun (game food again, well known), but I changed my stage rhythm the days before. So I found a idyllic pension in Brce inside a valley with good fish for diner.

There is a nice landscape to ride with little villages and a lot of panoramic views, if you go from Ilirska Bistrica via Tominje and Artvize to Matavun. In Matavun I visited the world famous Skocjanske jame, which is better to say a karst ensemble with different elements. The main attraction is a big river cave, but also the great dolina and the waterfalls around are great for visiting. Another attraction close to Matavun is the famous stud Lipica with the white horses, which better known through the Hofreitschule of Vienna. I just passed the area without visiting the stud because too late.

The vineyard route of the Slovenic Karst is a smooth hilled region with warm, sunny atmosphere, an inspiration for poetry and thoughts. If you have poosibilty try to find something out of Srecko Kosovel (more in the German version), who lived Tomaje. There are good possibilities to stay the night nearly in every village and to find a restaurant. Instead I didn’t get a real supper in Stanjel, which is an old town with castle and the nice Ferrari gardens. I get good private room, but there is no restaurant because the town is something like a ghost village which happens since partisan soldiers turned out the inhabitants. In Gorjanske I took some time for a wine-test in Gorjanske with some cosmopolitical discussion – worth to mention, that Jordan Strekelje looking back to 400 years of vintage family tradition. The importance of Teran wine is a high content of iron and a specific character of every village corresponding to the local differences of the soil. I finally wanted to cross the Rilke path between Sistiana and Duino, but it was blocked for any kind of passengers. At Sistiana beach is too much trouble to feel good for poetic thoughts. The times they are a-changin.

Fri 19.7. Viskovo – Sarsoni – Klana – Lisac (? m) – Novakracine – ? (? m) – Jelsane – ? (486 m) – Ilirska Bistrica – Sviscaki (1241 m) – Sneznik-Pass (1260 m) – Masun – Knezak – Knezak vrata (610 m) – Ilirska Bistrica – Brce
96 km | 11,2 km/h | 8:33 h | 1650 Hm
E (H): Fisch, Kart.salat, Bier 15 €
Ü: H Domacija Bubec 25 € m. Fr.

Sat 20.7. Brce – Harije – Tominje – Pregarje – Karlovica (715) – Tatre – Artvize – Matavun/Skocjanske jame (10-17 h stdl.) – (Divace) – Lokev – Lipica (8-18 h stdl.) – Sezana – Smarje – Dutovlje – Stanjel
82 km | 13,0 km/h | 6:18 h | 1090 Hm
E (Burg-Vinothek): kl. Aufschnitt, Rw, Sorbet 12,20 €
Ü: PZ Apartma Jera 25 € m. Fr.
B: Skocjanske jame (kl. Runde 3 h) 15 €

Sun 21.7. Stanjel – Branik – Griznik (298 m) – Komen – Pliskovica – Brije – Gorjanske – Brestovica – Jamlje – Duino – Sistiana – Montefalcone 16:27 h || 17:48 h Venezia Mestre 21:09 h || Mo 6:15 h München 6:48 h || 9:07 Stuttgart (1 h late)
70 km | 14,9 km/h | 4:42 h | 765 Hm
E (R Columbus, V.-Mestre): Wurst m. Polenta/Pilzen, Tintenfisch Venezia-Art m. Polenta, Crème brulée m. Früchten, Cafe 38,50 €
B: Weinprobe Vina Strekelj gratis, 2 Fl. Wein 16 €

Photo gallery CHAPTER X (120 photos):

Sorry, I forgot the link: Via Dinarica (German version)