Klasse! Um die Rivendell-Alternative aufzunehmen:
http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/html/bikes_riv6.htmlDerart thematisiert habe ich das Thema Sitzposition noch nie gesehen!
"Comfort by Design
When comfort is the goal, riding position is just about the only thing that matters. It’s more important than frame material, tube dimensions, and frame geometry combined. It’s more important than clothing and tires, too. Riding position is King, Pope, Earl, and Viceroy all in one, and if you don’t have it, your bike may be tolerable, more comfortable than your last bike, and you may become used to it, but it won’t feel like a sofa. For that, you need a good riding position, and that begins with a good design for your body. Following are our beliefs about riding position and comfort.
Arms, hands, and back. With drop bars, when you ride with your
hands just behind the brake hoods, your back should angled about 45 to 50 degrees to horizontal. Your elbows should be noticeably bent, with your lower arm between 10 & 50 degrees to horizontal. Your hands should rest lightly on the bars.
Seat, Feet and legs. For most riders, a more rearward sitting and
pedaling position works well. Despite the longtime wholesale acceptance of setting up your bike so that your knee is directly above the pedal axle, there’s no physiological basis for doing so. The fastest sprinters pedal way more forward than that. The fastest climbers pedal way more rearward. “Knee over pedal spindle” holds no water. Sitting back, you carry more weight on your rear end (which is designed to carry weight, after all), and less on your hands. And the rearward position affects pedaling in a couple of ways.
As you push down on the pedal, you’re actually pushing a
little forward, too, which helps you maintain your rearward position (and takes weight off your hands).
You catch the pedal going over the top sooner, so you can
start applying power earlier in the stroke. This is particularly good for climbing, and is why even pro racers do it (sit back farther) on mountain stages.
But a rearward position tends to bend you more at the waist. So, to open up that bend, raise the handlebars. High bars also take weight off your hands and improves descending, since it helps keep the rear wheel weighted and your weight centered. High bars make any hill seem less steep. With low bars, you feel like you’re going downhill even when the road is flat. Our top head lug’s unique 15mm extension is one of many details that help you achieve a good position.
Make Your Body Spring-like
Relaxed arms react to bumps, flexing and absorbing the shock before it gets to your neck/back/body. Picture the springlike movement of a jockey on a racehorse. Ignore the leaned over position, but notice how his relaxed appendages soak up the blows so his body doesn’t. The key to a relaxed body is a good position, and that starts with a good frame design for your body.
Be Careful Who You Emulate
Sizing, fitting, and positioning systems based on the young pro cyclist who has a flexible, tolerant body, is willing to sacrifice comfort for speed, gets a massage frequently, and usually quits riding when he turns 32…are not suitable for a non-competitive cycler seeking a lifetime of cycling health and pleasure.
Saddle Height Relative to the Handlebar Height
This is the most important relationship on the bike. On most bikes, the handlebars are much lower than the saddle, which leads to stress and pain in your hands, arms, shoulders, neck, and lower back. The too-low handlebars are due to design and fitting issues involving the stem, headset, head tube, steer tube, top tube, and frame size (seat tube length). The bad position is further encouraged by modern approaches to fit that steer you toward the smallest bike possible. Bikes such as these shift your weight forward, where it doesn’t belong.
For most riders, maximum comfort is achieved when the
handlebars are level with or up to 5cm/2-inches higher than the saddle. Few riders have ever experienced this, and few bike shops espouse such a bar-to-saddle relationship. It would serve no useful purpose, because this position is impossible to achieve on most production bikes. But the comfort has to be experienced to be believed. The weight on your hands is reduced. Your back doesn’t suffer as much. You can see around without holding your neck up. And steep descents don’t feel as steep, because your body is more upright. We design your frame with this in mind.
If a main criterion of comfort is getting the handlebars higher, then
an obvious way to do that is to start with a larger frame. But as you might expect, it’s not so easy. When you upsize with normal production frames, though, you run into problems. They are designed with a downsize mentality; which results in a short seat tube and a long top tube. When you go to a bigger frame, the top tube is usually too long"
Grüße,
moogley
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